Kumaon Through the Ages
From ancient Vedic settlements to mountain kingdoms, from the British Raj to independence — the story of Kumaon is one of the oldest chapters in the Himalayas.
Ancient texts including the Mahabharata and early Puranas reference the mountainous Kirata people of the eastern Himalayas, the earliest known inhabitants of what is now Kumaon.
Vedic EraThe Kuninda dynasty controlled much of the Kumaon foothills. Their coins — among the oldest found in the region — show devotion to Shiva and early mountain deities, establishing the deep religious identity of Kumaon.
Ancient KingdomThe Katyuri dynasty established their capital at Kartikeyapura (modern Baijnath), becoming the first unified rulers of Kumaon. They built the celebrated Baijnath temple complex that still stands today.
Katyuri DynastyAfter reaching its peak, the Katyuri empire fragmented into smaller kingdoms — including the Dotyal, Askot, and Doti rajyas. This period shaped the pluralistic local culture still visible in Kumaoni art, dress, and dialect.
Late KatyuriSoam Chand established the Chand dynasty, which would rule Kumaon for over five centuries. Almora was made the capital — a ridge settlement chosen for its defensive position above the Koshi and Suyal rivers.
Chand DynastyThe Chand kings patronized the Almora school of painting, Kumaoni folk music, the Aipan art form, and elaborate temple architecture. The Nanda Devi Raj Jat pilgrimage — still one of India's largest — dates to this era.
Arts & CultureThe Gorkha army under Amar Singh Thapa invaded and defeated the last Chand king Mahendra Chand, ending 500 years of Chand rule. The Gorkha period (1790–1815) left a lasting cultural imprint on Kumaon's music and cuisine.
Gorkha PeriodAfter defeating the Gorkhas in the Anglo-Nepalese War, the British East India Company annexed Kumaon. Almora became the administrative headquarters. The British surveyed the Himalayas from here, triangulating peaks including what would become known as Everest.
British AnnexationThe British developed Nainital as a hill station and summer capital for the United Provinces, transforming the Kumaon economy. Roads, schools, and rest houses were built across the hills, connecting Almora, Ranikhet, and Kausani.
Colonial DevelopmentThe legendary hunter-turned-conservationist Jim Corbett began tracking man-eating tigers across Kumaon, writing accounts that would later inspire one of India's most famous national parks. Corbett was born in Nainital and remained deeply connected to the region all his life.
Natural HistoryGandhi visited Almora and Kausani in 1929, calling Kausani "India's Switzerland." The freedom movement in Kumaon was fierce — the Kumaoni Regiment became one of the most decorated in the Indian Army and the hills produced numerous freedom fighters.
Independence EraKumaon became part of independent India as a division of Uttar Pradesh. The Kumaoni Regiment fought with distinction in the 1947 and 1962 wars. The Pant family of Almora produced Govind Ballabh Pant, independent India's first Home Minister.
Modern IndiaSwami Vivekananda had meditated at Kasar Devi in 1890. By the 1960s, it had become a waypoint on the hippie trail. Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens, Timothy Leary, and D.H. Lawrence all passed through — drawn by what NASA would later confirm as a unique cosmic ray intensity in the area.
Cultural HistoryIn Mandal village, Kumaon, local women led by Gaura Devi embraced trees to prevent commercial logging — giving birth to the Chipko Movement, one of India's most powerful environmental protests. The word "Chipko" means "to cling to" in Hindi.
Environmental HistoryAfter years of agitation for a separate hill state, Uttaranchal (later renamed Uttarakhand) was carved out of Uttar Pradesh. Nainital became the judicial capital. The new state has since become one of India's most popular nature tourism destinations.
State FormationThe pine forests, the Kosi river, the terraced farmlands, and the old stone towns are drawing a new generation of travellers who seek depth over spectacle. Almora is increasingly recognised as one of India's finest slow-travel destinations.
Present DayStay in the Heart of It
Soul Kumaon sits on the same ridge where Vivekananda meditated, where hippies built their fires, and where the Chand kings once looked out over their kingdom.
Book Your Stay